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Thomas Rouanet

Creissan
Languedoc, France

 

Thomas Rouanet grew up in a grape-growing family in the Languedoc, near the wine producing village of Saint-Chinian and just an hour from Montpellier and the Mediterranean coast. He was surrounded by vineyards throughout his childhood but after flirting with the idea of training to become a sports teacher, he decided to take over the vines that his grandfather, who had hung up his pruning shears, tended for many years.

In 2008, he began studying for his winemaking qualification in Montpellier, and that was followed two years later by a more sales-oriented qualification. During this time, Thomas wanted to gain as much experience as possible in all aspects of the wine business. He worked part-time in wine sales, which didn’t really tick all the boxes. He worked also as a caviste, giving advice on and selling wines, which he enjoyed more because of the contact with the customers, but what he really wanted was hands-on work, in the vines. He got experience working with Yannick Pelletier in 2010 and continued making wines with him until 2014, but in 2013 he took over his grandfather’s vines around the beautiful Languedoc village of Creissan. For two years, Thomas had the task of making the wines both for Pelletier and himself. As he says, his days were very long around harvest time in 2013 and 2014, making wines at one location on Monday and Tuesday then doing the same elsewhere on Wednesday and Thursday.

Thomas now farms 5 hectares of vines - that’s around 12 acres - all situated near Creissan and which are made up both of vines farmed by his grandfather and other parcels that he has acquired since. His grandfather was a little ahead of his time, being certified organic since 1991, and it’s even more surprising given that he sold most of his grapes to the local co-operative. Thomas has parcels of old vines – some 70- and 75-year-old parcels of Carignan and Grenache Noir – and lesser-known grape varieties such as the Alicante Bouchet and Terret. Most of his five hectares are on terroirs of clay-limestone and are worked in a similar manner, with ploughing at the end of winter and passing around the base of the vines with field cultivator, known in France as an intercep, to remove unwanted greenery before finishing off the job by hand.

Winemaking takes place in his grandfather’s old cellar in the village, although the enormous concrete vats, constructed in 1929, hold far too much volume for Thomas’s small batch production. You could say that the winemaking style he adopted is more classic in approach compared to some of his contemporaries. Thomas apprenticed with Yannick Pelletier and so like him, Thomas uses a mix of destemmed and whole bunch maceration with periods from one to three weeks, yet he strives and succeeds in making wines with great fruit, tannins that are present but not aggressive, and above all, drinkability.

When asked what drove him to make wines naturally, Thomas said that like many, he had preconceived, and ill-conceived ideas at the time about natural wines but then told the story of one of those seminal moments while tasting the wines of Didier Barral from Faugères and Yannick Pelletier (whom Thomas later worked with) at renowned wine fair in nearby Bedarieux. Their wines just blew him away, and, the surprise? They were made naturally! Not only that, Thomas learnt that they were making these amazing wines nearby so his thought was, “well if they can make wines like that here, why can’t I?” Enjoy.  

 

Currently available


Bombadilom 2019

Thomas came up with the quirky name, Bombadilom, from the character Tom Bombadil of Lord of the Rings fame and an eponymous 80s French pop song. It’s a blend of old vine Carignan and Grenache Noir from his 1.2 hectares Le Puech parcel on clay limestone soils near Creissan. Le Puech is made up of 1/3 Grenache Noir - 50 years old - and 2/3 Carignan - 70 years old - and is one of his grandfather’s original plots that has been certified Agriculture Biologique since 1991.

Once the grapes are handpicked and brought back to the cellar, the Grenache are destemmed and a first layer goes into fibreglass tanks. On that, Thomas puts a layer of whole bunch Carignan. This method is called millefeuille, referring to the French pastry of the same name, and the layers are repeated until the tank is full. Maceration lasts about three weeks, after which it is pressed, and the fermenting juice returns to fibreglass tanks to finish the sugars. The wine making process doesn’t involve any additives or enzymes and only uses the yeasts present on the grapes. Apart from transfer to another tank the following Spring to allow for removal of the lees, the juice is left to its own devices until bottling, without fining or filtering, in August 2018 where a minimal amount of SO2 is applied.

Appellation: Vin de France // Farming: Certified Agriculture Biologique // Grapes: Carignan, Grenache Noir // Vine Age: 70 and 50 years old // Fining: No // Filtering: No // Added SO2: Minimal, at bottling // Total Production: 375 cases // Harvest: Manual, end September 2018 // Bottling: August 2019 // ABV: 13%